Unexpected Pleasures at NGV. Part 1

Unexpected Pleasures: The Art and Design of Contemporary Jewellery at the NGV looks at what defines jewellery and what jewellery means to different individuals. The first section looks at jewellery as a reminder of people, experiences and places, with each piece having personal meaning to the wearer, maker or both. Kiko Gianocca's brooches are made of a glossy resin and photographic image. The brooch is to be worn glossy side facing out which reflects the people the wearer encounters, and the inner face has the image which references a place or time with significance to the wearer. I found this piece interesting because it has meaning past the aesthetics of it; here the jewellery becomes a reminder of something rather than a simple accessory, with little meaning.

Moving on from this was a section on turning points with a variety of pieces whose inspiration was pivotal for new expression and redefining ideas. Otto Künzli created his piece Gold Makes Blind for a jewellery prize, which stipulated that the piece must include a gold ball of a specific weight. Künzli complied, but made the fold completely invisible by coating it in rubber. This questions the notion of precious, and the value put on materials such as gold.


Otto Kunzli Gold Makes Blind (1980), rubber and gold

Another piece that caught my eye was Ted Noten's Tiara for Maxima. In 2002 Noten entered a competition among 40 others (21 finalists) to create a tiara for the new Dutch crown Prince's bride Máxima Zorreguieta. Noten's tiara design consisted of a shiny protective polo helmet from which the tiara was cut with profiles of former Dutch Queens cut out of the tiara, as little guardian angels. I liked this piece because it was a bit quirky and not what is stereotypically expected for a royal crown or tiara. 

Ted Norten Tiara for Mazima (2002)